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Bigger Waves....long boards?
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Re: Bigger Waves....long boards?
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boardhound
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Jan 5 11 9:21 AM
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Tod,
I happen to be stubborn and stick with my long board 100% of the time I get "Pummeled" but it adds to the laughs around the beer table.
Fav to date-Myself and a buddy paddled out a N. S. D. break and it was well overhead (Wind Swell). Sloppy Foam walls from top to bottom and Fast. We decided it was probably better to get out and head to another spot where its a little shadowed from the swell. You know two things happen when you Claim "1 More" it goes flat our the "Set" breaks way outside. Well we got the "Way Outside" and I started digging to beat it' and lost. Let the pummeling begin. Held the board and made the first, yes the first and wouldn't you know the second was bigger and broke father out. Second round and again I lost but climbed on my board in time for the third. well needless to say I did not catch that last wave in. They caught me. Tired, fat and out of breath I went to climb back on my board only to find my fin was on the sand. OOH and my Buddy well he made it outside, so I sat there sucking wind waiting for him to catch one in. I was amazed and humored when he paddles for this beast of a wave. He dug deep jumped up and then the Face pitched he was on the tail leaning back hands over his head trying to keep his balance. If you seen it you knew it was gonna be frkin ugly. So like any good surf buddy I started laughing he is going down and its not gonna be purty. S.O.B. Karma laughed back at me the wave held a little longer he gained his composure, took two steps forward and made the drop. The wave then turned into a wall of foam. He won this day and holds that events prodley over my head.
Thanks for giving me a reason to overrun your question. So I guess my answer is long board always.
Todd
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Bigger Waves....long boards?
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