Seriously, a few surfs without a leash will have you grabbing nose or anything else to hang on and save a swim.
Up here we are plagued with short period 10 wave sets.
When it gets bigger (it was 18' a few days ago :( ), old timers use the Island Style pull out, setting a rail for speed and going full tilt out on the shoulder and carrying the speed up and over, going prone to paddle back out as fast as possible. Saves a few waves on the head or worse-paddling in and walking back to the channel (if there is one).
In small surf, I prefer the walk to the nose and take it all with you through the back if I am sans leash or even the "flick", merely stepping on the tail and "flicking" the board over the whitewater.
There was a guy who surfed Seal back in the 70's, Gene I think, Master of the "flyaway", he would fling his board at any one down the line, real bad apple, that one...:eek